- I don’t know whom to follow or what to think. Everyone says: “You should do to-go! You should sell gift cards! You should offer delivery! You need a social media presence! You should pivot to groceries! You should raise your prices — a branzino is $56 at Via Carota!”
I have thought for many long minutes, days, weeks of confinement and quarantine, should I? Is that what Prune should do and what Prune should become?
I cannot see myself excitedly daydreaming about the third-party delivery-ticket screen I will read orders from all evening. I cannot see myself sketching doodles of the to-go boxes I will pack my food into so that I can send it out into the night, anonymously, hoping the poor delivery guy does a good job and stays safe. I don’t think I can sit around dreaming up menus and cocktails and fantasizing about what would be on my playlist just to create something that people will order and receive and consume via an app. I started my restaurant as a place for people to talk to one another, with a very decent but affordable glass of wine and an expertly prepared plate of simply braised lamb shoulder on the table to keep the conversation flowing, and ran it as such as long as I could. If this kind of place is not relevant to society, then it — we — should become extinct.
I've been thinking about this article - and all of your comments - since yesterday, and there's one aspect of it that is missing: The customer's perspective. What will a restaurant have to do/say/post before I am comfortable going into one again? Restaurant tables - like she mentioned in her article - are jammed closely together. If they separate tables by 4 feet, is that enough for me? (And, can they make any money with only 30% of the table tops they used to have?) Ok. Maybe they publish their cleaning procedures, and each table has hand sanitizer and ... so what? In America, unfortunately, the wait staff still handles your credit card; it's like Europe in the 1980's. So did my server wash/sanitize their hands after they handled that person's card over there? Or that one? Or... dang... it's busy in here... they are running like crazy... who has time for that? And what about bars and coffee shops, where the tables are cleaned/sanitized once a day, at opening? Who sat here before I was here? And before them? How many people have sat here in the last 3 hours, spreading crap on the table? Until there is a vaccine and I have it (or proof I have antibodies and the reinfections they are seeing are proven anomalous) I just don't see myself going out and patronizing any of my favorite restaurants, coffee shops, or bars. If and when I do, they will have all failed due to lack of business. That sucks ass.
I suspect the author and I would see eye-to-eye about the Los Angeles restaurant scene. She's not really asking if the world needs her restaurant... she's asking if she and the East Village agree about what restaurants are for. I know foodies in LA. I've gone to foodie places. I've worked with big names in the fancy-pants food industry. It's not dining, it's branding. It's been branding since this: Prune opened in 1999. Scripps took over "The TV Food Network" in 1997. Gourmet Magazine ran an article (and a cover) decrying the celebrity chef industry and the spectation of cuisine in 2003 then ran that David Foster Wallace article after a rebrand in 2005. They were dead by 2009; their heart was never really in it and they'd always been about making food, not looking like you're making food. The basic problem is one of gentrification. $3 beer in the East Village? That's a loss leader, like the 10 cent PBRs at the college bar. Economics don't support it like the author points out. If you want to serve food that people can afford, you suffer somewhere. Those people are gone, replaced by the lapdog lady asking about brunch. And fundamentally? This is an article complaining that the lapdog ladies have won New York.I meant to create a restaurant that would serve as delicious and interesting food as the serious restaurants elsewhere in the city but in a setting that would welcome, and not intimidate, my ragtag friends and my neighbors — all the East Village painters and poets, the butches and the queens, the saxophone player on the sixth floor of my tenement building, the performance artists doing their brave naked work up the street at P.S. 122. I wanted a place you could go after work or on your day off if you had only a line cook’s paycheck but also a line cook’s palate. And I thought it might be a more stable way to earn a living than the scramble of freelancing I’d done up until then.
I hate to say it but prune is dead, she should have shut it down with the last bit of liquidity she had and paid the legal retainer for bankruptcy liquidation, paid the vendors she liked with what she had left, paid herself a salary for a few more weeks and called it a day. This crisis will wipe out everyone who is leveraged and has high debt load and that basically means every restaurant out there that was established in the last decade in any of the expensive major cities. Farmers are probably going to feel a similar pain but there arent really that many left due to previous rounds of this. Thats not to say that restaurants are dead, new ones will emerge out of this buy up space and equipment at a pennies on the dollar and be able run reduce costs. Even if Prune had loans and the liquidity to survive this their fixed costs would drive them out because others will be able to come into the space with much lower capitol and rent costs. This is theoretically not a bad thing because it is supposed to reward people who were prudent with their money, but reality is that the people that were the most reckless will just get bailed out and get access to money printed by the fed. People like this lady will have everything taken from them (thanks to personal guarantees on business loans). Next couple years we are probably going to see the largest wealth transfer in the last century, a lot of things that were "owned" by the middle class will get bought up by insiders with access to unlimited funds then rented back out to the previous owners. Its not just restaraunts either, a lot of people will loose cars and houses to this that will then get repossessed by connected institutions/individuals and then rented back to the poor suckers that lost them at a hefty profit. My bet the end result is that the author of this piece will end up running a restaurant that's owned by some PE firm that has access to capitol a few years from now having lost all her assets along the way, and thats going to be the story of many Americans. Shit's gonna get real dark real quick for the middle class, hell its already been that way many just didn't realize it till now.
Wow. There's nothing special to you about eating a good meal with good company? To me it's one of the best things in life. I've been told that I should sign up for door dash or start delivering pounds of coffee to peoples houses while I'm shut down. I didn't open up the shop to make filthy lucre. If that's what I was in it for I could fine many ways to make more money with less work doing something else. I don't want to stand behind a machine passing off drinks to an app slave all day. I won't wear a mask for 10 hours a day, just to have the privileged of at most three minutes business like human contact while you go in the one door and exit the other moving through tapped off squares on the floor. My shop is a part of the neighborhood. It's the place where friendships, relationships, new businesses and public service projects are born. It's friends who haven't seen each other in months having a chance encounter and kicking it for an hour on the picnic table. It's really too many things to list and I'm sure it's things to people I barely know that they find important that I have no idea of. Food is sacrament. You need it to live. Maybe this means nothing to you. Maybe food, it's enjoyment, the realization people have worked hard from soil to your cup to try and make it special just for you is of no importance, a cup at 7/11, McDonalds, or from Door Dash is as good as another. I've noticed restaurants that start emphasizing app delivery get shitty within about six months. Their margins go down but the volume goes up. Your work harder for a little bit more money and a lot less fun. The owner touches less of what goes out the door, because the're too busy to be involved with all aspects as much as they used to be. The owner definitely has less contact with customers, cares less because it's hard to care when your main feed back is mostly the angry stares of app slaves who care for naught but time. Work isn't fun, if you can hire your way out of production you do. prices almost always go up in those first six months while quality goes down. Within a year I generally don't dine there anymore. There is a Thai place a block from my house, we used to ear there once a week, it's dead to me now but always has deliveries streaming in and out. I don't want to live in app food world, just like I don't want to live in a cooperate food world. I haven't eaten in a Chilies type restaurant in over a decade. I have a weakness for McDonalds breakfast, I might get it once a month. I've ordered food by app exactly once in my life. If I'm going to sit at home I can make my self something to eat. If I go out I want my food to be intentional, made by someone who meant to be at this place at this time making the food they want to make, rockin whatever tunes they wanted to rock, in an environment they thought would be conducive to the experience. Maybe I'm shallow, but eating other peoples food while I enjoy the company of the people I love and find interesting is close to one of my favorite things in life. It's possible I am not understanding your snark. If I am understanding it than your life sounds pretty fucking sad to me but we are different people who value different things. I hope the world still NEEDS to share good food with good company.
Know a guy with a burger shop. he was all about Uber Eats. He said "they take 25% but our business is up 25%!" Food went downhill. His wife put out a little table of munchies and candies and stuff for the Doordash guys to sit at, probably so they'd feel kind of like they were at a restaurant, I guess? But they're face-in-phone because they're on the job and the job pays ass so they'll happily find another reality, thanks. They were divorced within a year. His restaurant closed. It was "joe's burgers" and he tried to reopen as "joe's seafood bistro" and right now it's "main street sliders" or some shit but fundamentally, it's a place apps buy food and nobody else will bother with it. I hadn't made that connection before but you're right - it's one of three restaurants I no longer go to because it becomes all about the app. The sushi place down the street made my then-5-year-old wait 90 minutes for her food because they were too busy filling Uber Eats orders.I've noticed restaurants that start emphasizing app delivery get shitty within about six months.
It seems you took my comment very personally, which I can understand. To be honest, as I made this comment I considered one I'd read from wasoxygen earlier this week, which stated that any time there is a question in an article title, it can be answered with "No." I felt that way about this article. I don't think this article is without its merits, and I understand how local restaurants create a community. I consider myself part of such a community! I don't feel the need to defend my comments any further, and it does seem to me that your comment is one intended to incite a defense. I wish you and your enterprises well, and am sure we'll run across each other on Hubski again, with no ill will!
Haha. I don't think you should ever feel like you need to defend your comments to me. I'm don't bother too on Hubski anymore. I really don't understand how your answer is "no," unless you just hate headline construction gimmicks. Certainly no I'll will, live your life. This shit is horrible and it's going to leave our world poorer and more at the mercy of cooperate shit on billion levels, including food.
The thing is corporate food cant compete long term. Short term it will devastate everyone, but the barrier to entry in the restaurant is tiny and the margins arent there and never were. Restaurants cant support the 25% delivery app overhead or corporate structure overhead for a long time, sure short term they will because all the competition will get wiped out but in 5-10 years competitors will crop up and deal some significant damage. Unless of-course rent continues to be fucked up high globally... Then no matter how good you are you wont be fight corporate food since real estate is your biggest expense and the other stuff is tiny.