Rereading your quote, I will concede that I may have misremembered his tone, but I don't believe he is overly scolding or reprimanding. He is an outsider and I still think he seems genuinely ignorant of the attitude within the culinary community, and at least initially, of his own. You seem to think it's put-on, I don't know, perhaps it is. Also:
Is this not what the Slow Food, farm-to-table, movement is all about? People like Michael Pollan and Alice Waters encourage putting more thought into where your food comes from, so where do you draw the line? Why not consider how your food is prepared as well? or at what cost? Given the context of where this was published, the intended audience, and perhaps what the assignment was, I could see why you would think this is a "shite lobster piece." Shouldn't you take umbrage with the editor instead though? If DFW was assigned a 1,000 word fluff piece on a lobster festival and turned in this, why would the magazine even publish it unless they wanted it in their magazine or found it compelling? Maybe they needed to fill pages? I'm honestly surprised that it happened and I'll admit that I find it a bit amusing. This was the first thing I ever read by David Foster Wallace and I read it in the collection of essays that goes by the same name. His experience following McCain on the presidential campaign trail might be my favorite, but similar to this one, he goes a bit off the rails. In fact, thinking about all of the essays I've read by him, this is just what he does. I enjoy that. And regarding your comment about a video game review, I would rather read your proposed non-review than a blurb about "compelling game play" and "impressive graphics." That industry could use more thought and insight. It's nice to see you around. I obviously don't always agree with you but I enjoy reading your comments.Do they ever think about their reluctance to think about it? After all, isn’t being extra aware and attentive and thoughtful about one’s food and its overall context part of what distinguishes a real gourmet? Or is all the gourmet’s extra attention and sensibility just supposed to be aesthetic, gustatory?
Once again, it comes to the context. If David Foster Wallace chose to venture down to the State Fair on his own dime to write his own essay about his own thing, his own conclusions in his own essay are entirely appropriate. HOWEVER, when you've been commissioned as a journalist to cover an event, your job is to cease to be an outsider. The goal of writing an article is to not only eliminate your own ignorance but work to dispel the ignorance of your readers. Here's David Karp on mangosteens, exactly thirteen months previously. Read that, you learn some stuff about mangosteens. Read David Foster Wallace, and you learn some stuff about David Foster Wallace. I don't give a shit about David Foster Wallace. If I'm to "consider the lobster" you'd best tell me about the lobster, not about what an asshole I am for eating one. I've heard that "going off the rails" was his thing. It isn't mine. Slow Food, farm-to-table is about food and our relationship with it, and about the inherent advantages of preparing food with care. This article is about not preparing food. As far as anger with the editors, remember - I canceled my subscription over this piece.He is an outsider and I still think he seems genuinely ignorant of the attitude within the culinary community, and at least initially, of his own. You seem to think it's put-on, I don't know, perhaps it is.
Context is everything, for sure. As far as meeting expectations, he failed. Had I given the assignment, I would likely not be pleased. I did learn about the lobster festival, although perhaps in a disagreeable tone, but little about lobsters what lobsters taste like. I did not get to vicariously attend the festival through his writing. Or perhaps I did, but through his subjective, questioning eyes. Which, I understand, is probably not what his readers were hoping for. I learned much more about lobsters than I could have predicted, and it was interesting! The history of lobsters as food, different "preparation" methods, their biology, their nervous system. This article was so much more than I could have expected going into it. Then again, I suppose that's the problem. The scope shifted. I enjoyed where it took me, what it taught me, and the thoughts it provoked from me; the readers of Gourmet Magazine, you being one of them, clearly did not. He essentially wrote an editorial blog post. It may have been appropriate if he was speaking as a member of the community and hoped to encourage self-reflection and discussion on the matter. It may be a topic for humanity-at-large to discuss, but one that chefs and culinary enthusiasts probably have an opinion on and using the pages of their magazine isn't the best place to wax philosophical or try to start such a discussion. I'm just happy to have read it.
The piece gets under my skin for several reasons. The first of which is I've had my writing compared to David Foster Wallace's several times by people who mean well and honestly wish to flatter. It's like when people attempt to sing my praises by quoting American Psycho. I should just be flattered. I'm not. The next of which is that the piece really was the turning point for Gourmet. They were a foodie's magazine about food and they decided they wanted to be an everything's magazine about everything. In an attempt to capture market share in a cooking-averse world dominated by The Food Network and useless blogs, they opted to go to long-form bullshit that wasn't about food. This article was in an issue that experienced the third style revamp in as many years, each of which came with the death of columns that were the high points of the magazine. They were bankrupt four years later. The last of which is it's a disorganized, self-indulgent mess. You extolled Michael Pollan earlier. You read Pollan and you know where you've been, you know where you're going, and you're on a journey with someone who is certain enough in their adventures to take you by the hand. That's how Ruth Reichl ran Gourmet... for the most part. They were a steadfast authority on food that would ensure that everything you read would enrich your experience with food. This article? Not even David Foster Wallace can tell if you should bother. Is it about lobster? Is it about eating lobster? Is it about the deep humanity of eating another creature? Is it about the deep inhumanity of eating another creature? Who knows? It's written by a genius, so it doesn't matter. Is this sort of waffling necessary? No. Nobody ever compares me to David Petersen.
At least Cook's Illustrated is still serious about food. I don't know if you know about it, or if you have a different replacement for Gourmet magazine, but Cook's is pretty legit.