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For minor changes to the CSS, I recommend stylebot for chrome. You can just add or change rules to as little or as much as you want. I played with it pretty heavily a while back and had it all super slick and shit. Now, I just increase font sizes and line heights across the board because I'm on a 27" iMac at work and this screen is just so freaking big. Here's a random overhaul to the CSS using stylebot - it might be broken now though. I don't even know if the one supertod did still works, but it was fucking epic: https://hubski.com/pub?id=99737